Installing Larger Plants

Installing Larger Plants

 into the Northeast Florida Landscape


Installing Larger Plants and Trees into the Northeast Florida Landscape River Birch Larger plants and trees should be treated differently
when being installed into the Northeast Florida landscapes than small flowers and shrubs. The
biggest variation is the amount of soil amendment used at the time of planting.

We recommend amending poorly draining clay soils or really
sandy soils when installing larger shrubs, but not when installing larger trees.
Mainly
because the trees root system, once it has reached it’s full potential, will far
exceed the confines of the planting area.
This can reduce the effectiveness of soil amendment at the
time of planting to the point that it may do more harm than good in some
situations.

For example: When planting into hard
pan or areas of heavy clay soils, too much soil amendment in the planting hole on a larger tree ( 15 gallon size
nursery pot or larger ) can cause the newly growing roots to hit the edge of the amended soil and turn
back around to continue to grow in the loose newly added soil rather than branch out into the hard clay around it.
It is thought that this can create a root bound tree after being planted into the landscape.

In addition to areas of hardpan or
heavy clay soils being an issue in some areas of our Northeast Florida landscape, tree roots will grow out of the
amended planting area too quickly to benefit from the added amendments. When installed and watered properly, this
may happen within just a few weeks of installing your new larger trees.

When you do decide to amend the soil on
larger plants or trees a more gradual Instlling larger plants loropetalum, podocarpus, gold mound shrubschange in soil composition is needed than we use when installing smaller plants
into the landscape. It is recommended that when installing larger plants into the landscape, only one
third amendment to two thirds native soil is used to backfill planting holes
. This will give the new
roots a gradual transition from the nursery potting mix the container plants were grown in,
to amended native soil, and finally to the native soil that
the vast majority of the roots of the larger plants and trees will grow in as their root system
matures.

Installing smaller flowers and shrubs
into the landscape? Click on this link for help with installing smaller flowers and shrubs in
Northeast Florida
.

Simple Steps to Install your Larger Plants and Trees

in the Northeast Florida Landscape

Installing larger plants and trees into the Norhteast Florida Landscape1 –  Dig the hole much wider and just
a few inches shallower
 than the size of the pot you
purchased. If you dig the hole too deep and end up having to backfill the
 hole with soil to get to the depth you need, stomp the
soil on the bottom of the hole down good with your shoe
 to help
ensure the plant does not settle down into the loosened soil a
fter
pla
nting and end up after all your efforts still
being
 planted too deep.

 For 3 Gallon
and 7 gallon siz
ed plants
 we recommend digging the hole at least
twice as wide
 as the size of the nursery pot you
purchased,
 remembering to dig 1-2 inches shallower than the depth of the soil in the
container.

When planting larger trees in 15, 30,
and 45 gallon or larger nursery containers
 it is not advisable
to dig the hole much larger than the width of the root ball
 as the
loosened soil will allow the tree to fall over easily during Northeast
 Florida’s frequent storms. For this
reason
 when installing larger
trees, dig the hole just
 6 to 12 inches
wider
 than the size of the nursery container that you
purchased,
 remembering to dig 2-3 inches shallower than the depth of the soil in the container.

Installing larger plants above grade still too deep2 If for some reason you have determined that your soil is in
need of amending at the time of planting, add
 your chosen soil
amendments
 to the native soil you removed from the planting
hole in step one
 and mix no more than one third soil amendment to two
thirds native soil.
  (Native soil is the soil already
existing in t
he landscape where you have chosen to plant your new larger
plants and trees.
) When planting larger trees (30, 45,
65+
 gallon nursery
containers)
 it is not recommended to amend the native
soil when planting in most situations. The
 new feeder roots that
will immediately begin to form when your larger tree is
 installed
and
 watered properly, will outgrow the amended area in just a few
weeks time. For 3, 7 and even sometimes 15 gallon sized shrubs,
 amendment is more often recommended at the
time of installation
 as the root system will not grow out of the
amended area nearly as quickly if at all.

3
  Remove the plant
from the container by tipping it over on it’s side and pulling or cutting off the plastic
container.

4 –  Take
the time to loosen the roots on the outside edges of your larger shrub or tree’s root system.
Th
is can be done by using a shovel or hand tool to pry the roots
apart
 or you may opt to
make three or more vertical slits along the side of the root ball
 that extend from the top of the root all the way down the sides of the root
bal
l to the bottom.

Installing larger plants at grade too low under soil5 –  Place your
larger plant or tree into the pre dug
 hole,
make sure at this time that the root system of the plant you are installing stands a few inches higher than
the existing grade of the landscape soil
. If at this time your plant or
tree
 is lower or level with the soil, remove your plant from the
hole, back fill with 2 – 3 inches of soil and stomp the backfilled soil dow
n with your shoes to compact the soil in the bottom of the hole. Place the tree being
installed back in the hole and check again to make sure the root system is a few inches above the grade of the
existing soil in the landscape
.

6 –  Once
you have determined that the plant is placed at the proper planting depth,
 backfill the rest of the hole with the amended native soil
mix.
 Fill the edges of the hole
in
 one third at a time, tamping the soil down with the other end of your shovel to get rid of the air pockets in the soil. This can
also be done by
 watering with a hose around the root ball to settle the soil and get rid of any air pockets that may have
formed while backfilling the hole. Doing the back
 filling then
settling in the soil
 in thirds rather than all at once at the top
of the soil will help ensure that the soil has settled down nicely and that the root ball
 is in complete contact with soil on all
sides.
 Air pockets left when backfilling the soil can make
your root system dry out quickly
 and not allow your newly
installed larger plants and trees to get the water they need.

It is crucial to the survival of your
newly installed larger shrubs and trees that no soil is placed on top of the existing root system of the plant you
purchased.
 The soil that was exposed to the air in the
container, should be exposed to the air when your planting is finished
.

7
When installing larger plants and trees in 15 gallon or larger nursery
containers,
 build a small burm around the outside of the root system that will allow the supplemental irrigation water you
will be supplying with a hose to remain on top of the root ball
 rather
than running off into the surrounding soil. Be sure to
 build your
burm or ‘
water wall’ after the
edge
 of the root ball and not
on top of it
. This burm will need to be removed or
raked
 into the landscape AWAY
FROM THE TREE where it can not be washed back over the top of the root ball
 you planted during heavy rains.

8-  Mulch as needed and water
daily
 for the first two to three weeks ( 30,45,65+ gallon and
larger trees will need water daily for two to three months or more to ensure that they have enough water to get
those roots growing out into the landscape where your newly installed trees can begin to survive on their
own
) Lack of water is the number one cause of death on newly planted trees and
shrubs. The larger the plant you purchased is, the more water it needs daily and the longer it will require daily
watering to establish.

Follow the recommended watering practices of weekly to biweekly for your new larger plants and trees once they
have established themselves into the landscape and visible new grow
th has been
observed. See your ‘watering your newly planted plants and trees’ brochure available at the time of purchase.
Or
 call our office and ask for help with your specific plants water
needs.

Lack of water is
the number one cause of death on newly planted trees and shrubs.
* Larger container grown plants and
trees dry out very quickly after being installed
 into
the Northeast
 Florida landscape. One day without water during the heat of
summer can cause partial root death, and several days in a row without water during the establishment period can
mean the death of your new plant or tree. *

Click this link for
more information on watering
your newly planted flowers, shrubs and trees
.